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Pumpkin Pie
I've always loved pumpkin pie – it's a great combination of comfort food and spice, just what you need at this time of year. But all too often pumpkin pies tend to be little more than a red custard tart with a sprinkling of cinnamon.
Over the years I've tried endless combinations. Here's my current "perfect pumpkin pie".
Which Pumpkin?
The most important aspect of a good pumpkin pie is - not surprisingly - the pumpkin. Choose badly and you may as well not bother...
My main tip, is don't bother with the pumpkins that are sold in supermarkets for carving at Halloween. These are bred for easy scooping, not great cooking. Scoop away by all means and amuse the kids, but throw away the insides - and find something better.
Most varieties sold with eating in mind will make a good pie. my favourites are:
Potimarron
This is a bright orange, onion-shaped variety with a slight chestnutty flavour.
Potiron rouge vif d'Étampes
The most widely grown variety in France, with a dense, orange flesh.
Hungarian Blue
This has silvery-blue skin, and firm orange flesh. It's also great in soups.
The Crust
Too many pies make do with a dreary, floury crust that becomes soggy as soon as the pie comes out of the oven. Having tried many alternatives in my tireless quest, I think the almond biscuit crust is pretty well perfect. And what's more, it's dead easy to make - you just zap all the ingredients in a blender and press the resulting crumby mixture into the pie dish - no rolling required.
So, here we go...
The pumpkin:
750g pumpkin flesh
Cut the pumpkin flesh into chunks and cook with a splash of water over a low heat until tender. Let it cool, then drain any excess water.
The crust:
250g plain flour
50g whole, unpeeled almonds,
170g butter
50g sugar
Put all the crust ingredients into a food processor and zap them until there is no more plain flour in sight and the mixture resembles fresh breadcrumbs. Don't try to blend it into a dough.
Pour the mixture into a buttered, 30cm (12") pie dish. Press the mixture around the sides with your fingers to make the rim, then press the rest into the bottom - I use a tablespoon for this bit.
The filling:
Now it's all about the combination of spices. I use fresh ginger, some star anise and a little chilli. These make the filling lovely and zingy, with a slight acidic note that's very pleasing.
10g cinnamon stick
1/2 nutmeg
5g cloves
1 star anise
1 dry chilli
50g fresh ginger
100g sugar
3 large eggs
250g crème fraiche
200ml milk
Zap the spices in a grinder till finely powdered. Add to the pumpkin.
Whizz the fresh ginger and a tablespoon of the sugar in a blender till it resembles mushed apple. Add that to the pumpkin too.
Add all the remaining ingredients to the pumpkin, and zap with a hand blender until thoroughly blended. The result should be quite thick.
and now, the pie
Pour the filling into the unbaked pie-crust, being careful not to overflow, or get any filling on the rim.
Bake in a pre-hearted oven at 180C for 30-40 minutes, or until starting to brown on top.
Remove from the oven and cool.
Serve cold - or chilled - with a dollop of crème fraiche.
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